Headset Top Cap Torque

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Headset top cap torque.

As others have said the top cap is pre load only. Slide your headset spacers and handlebar stem back onto the steerer tube and put the top cap and bolt back on top of the stem and begin to preload the headset by tightening the preload bolt. Same is true for the end cap on a shimano hollowtech ii crankset. Once the stem is tightened in place is is purely cosmetic and covers the top of the steerer.

Do not overtighten it. It is non load bearing. Anything you can imagine. On a custom bicycle headset cap for any type of bike.

Top caps are compatible with all 1 1 8 aluminum steerer tubes. On to your problem it could be the clicking you hear is because the pre load top cap is a tiny bit loose. A torque wrench is a good idea at this point. The edc steerer plug is required for edc tool storage and is compatible with most aluminum tapered steerer.

Adding tension to the bolt will pull the threaded star nut which is found wedged inside the steerer tube upwards moving the fork crown race bearing more tightly into the lower headset cup. You will need to loosen stem then tighten this top cap slightly quarter turn or so. I would say 5 n m is safe. Then tighten stem again.

Align your handlebar stem and apply the appropriate torque rating to the steerer tube clamp bolts. Depending on how loose your headset bearing feels you can make adjustments to the bearing tension with the 5mm allen bolt located in the top cap. You want the minimum torque to reduce play in the headset. Welcome to kapz custom bicycle products no production delays business as usual.

Too tight can damage bearings.